Surfing Big Waves in Hawaii with Makani Adric
Just last week we caught an glimpse of an 18 year old girl charging out on a big swell at Waimea Bay on Hawaii’s North Shore. Makani Adric is one of only a handful of girls who take on the big wave scene. It’s only fitting that we found out more about this courageous goofy footer from Pupukea.
Hanging out on the North Shore is a surfer’s dream at this time of year with the winter swells you’re so lucky. Tell us a bit about when you started surfing and how you got into big waves? Your first experience on a sizeable wave… I started surfing when I was about 7 years old. My whole family surfed and That’s the same age I started training jiu-jitsu. I surfed just for fun, later in my teenage years I started to compete. Growing up on the North Shore of Oahu the wave I learned how to surf first was Haleiwa so big wave surfing for me just came naturally. When I turned 16 I took on Waimea, it was one of the first waves I had actual big wave experience surfing on. Every Winter I get so excited to surf Waimea Bay as the big swells roll in.
Do you go hunting for the big ones or just take what comes to the Hawaiian islands? I haven’t ever gone wave hunting out of the Hawaiian Islands… Not yet… Every year my Uncle Garrett McNamara tries to get me to go to Portugal with him to surf Nazare. I haven’t yet gone but soon I will! Would be a great experience for me to surf there with him.
What boards do you use for the big swells? When the really big swells hit I’ll usually surf Jeff Bushman Surfboards. He shapes really great big guns for bigger waves. I have two of my favorite boards for bigger waves. One is a 10’0 and the other is 11’0. On a little of smaller waves or really fun surf I will use my Bret Boards.
Does your martial arts help with your strength as a surfer? Martial arts really does help me with my surfing. I do jiujitsu at Sunset Beach Jiu Jitsu, there is a lot of cardio, gripping, arm, and leg strength involved. Surfing is kind of like jiu-jitsu. I always compare both sports to each other when I’m surfing out in the water, or training on the mats.
Surfing and training is a good combination for myself. There are not too many girls who surf big waves… But I guess that’s a plus when your the only girl out and you sometimes get waves handed to you. But most of the time it takes a lot of hard work and training to get where you are at, especially when you’re dealing with dangerous conditions. But life is so good, I try to always have fun and smile doing the things I love most!
Do you have a dream location to surf a big swell? I haven’t really thought about a dream location to surf a big swell. Most people that live in Hawaii are very spoiled with consistently having great surf all year round. I would say Hawaii is a surfers dream, it’s paradise here. Portugal and Tahiti are two places I hope to surf on a big swell some day.